Handmade Wardrobe
Comments 6

The Feathered Mortmain

Work in progress

Work in progress

I’ve decided that the best thing about sick days is online pattern shopping. Laying around feeling like crap is no fun at all, even Law and Order SVU marathons and having your mother fetch you tea and toast doesn’t help, the day just feels wasted and then the next day you have a mountain of work to catch up on. Luckily for me (and you readers) I’ve found the cure for making a sick day more bearable. Online pattern shopping!

s8lX9k48QvxeFwaSF9r2novbtH5DMUm0kY-044EqIakI was reading some sewing blogs and came across someone who had just pattern tested a dress from a brand new company, The Mortmain by Gather. The construction of the dress really intrigued me, especially the waist band. I did some research and found other bloggers who had pattern tested it and decided to order a copy. I peeled myself out of bed and headed to my fabric stash. I bought this fabric at Grey’s in the summer of 2013 with plans to make a Hawthorn dress but I decided that if I still hadn’t started the dress 6 months later, maybe this fabric would be better suited for something else, thus the beginning of my Mortmain!


Apparently I like having my co-worker Kristen take my picture in front of the barn door that leads to our print room. This was a silly shot that she caught when I was joking around.

The pattern came about a week later and I got to work on my sleeveless version. The instructions for the box pleats had me scratching my head a bit. I am used to putting in pleats, tucks and darts before joining the skirt front and back so when I was trying to put the dress together this way my pleats were not looking at all correct, there was no third notch to match up so I took the pleat to the end of the piece and it looked wrong and I realized I wouldn’t be able to connect the front to the back because the side seam would be hidden in the pleat. What was a girl to do? I emailed the Gather girls and promptly heard back from Caroline who was such a big help! “Both skirt back pieces have one full pleat in the middle of the pattern piece, and the next one along has the skirt side seams at the centre of the pleat. (this is why the front and back pieces have to be sewn together before you can start pleating!) I hope that makes sense! Do shout if it’s not clear or if you’re having problems and we can help out.”

This made perfect sense and the rest of the construction was a breeze. I used a regular zipper because I couldn’t find an exposed one that I liked and it came out nicely. I just did a straight stitch around the hem, the fabric is very busy so I don’t think it takes anything away from the dress and I think of this more as a casual dress that needs to be sturdy. I wore this dress on Easter where a lot of playing outside with my 3 little cousins took place and have worn it a few times to work. I’ve gotten many compliments on the fabric and I love love love the skirt. I’m considering a navy blue or dark purple 3/4 sleeve version, I think it would be a perfect fall dress!


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