On my trip to NYC I bought fabric with the specific intention to make this jacket with. Seriously it was my only fabric goal! I got a nice wool and matching lining fabric yet the longer I waited to get started the more I second guessed my choice. First of all, the pattern doesn’t call for lining so I was going to add that on my own, secondly my wool is dry clean only, not exactly a deal breaker but inconvenient none the less and thirdly it’s really not meant for this type of jacket. So I accepted defeat and ordered some swatches of cotton twill from Mood as that’s what the Deer and Doe model for the pattern on their website is wearing and I’ve seen a lot of blogs where the authors have used it.
Ironically, none of the swatches worked for me so all New York type fabrics failed me for this. I went to Grey’s and knew I’d find something there. The twill I wanted they only had 2.5 yards left of! Was I cursed and not meant to make this jacket? I ended up buying the same twill in teal (versus navy blue as I planned) and when I got home I put the finishing touches on my muslin version so I could get to work.
I lucked out and had enough scraps of fabric in similar weights in my stash (being a hoarder has its occasional rewards) to make just about half a muslin with. I am sharing this picture with the only intention being to make you laugh, it’s a mix of prints and could never be wearable but it did it’s job of helping me perfect the fit.
I wanted to be able to wear this jacket with a sweater underneath or a track jacket so it would be wearable in the spring, fall and even early winter so I cut 1 size bigger than my bust measurements and went from there. The fit was actually spot on but left very little bust room. With a regular shirt I was going to be fine so I really only needed to add a tiny bit to reach my “wear a thick sweater under this” goal. I was already at the largest size and didn’t want to get too crazy with my alterations so instead I just sewed the princess seams with a smaller seam allowance and fudging the seam allowance did the trick!
After fudging the seam allowance I had to make allowances to the other pieces as well so my simple fudging almost turned into a full blown pattern redraft. I added half an inch to the shoulder, 1/4 of an inch to the pattern piece so 1/2 inch total and about two inches to the waistband by adding slightly over 1 inch to the piece on the fold.
I only made one sleeve because the last thing I wanted was to finish this jacket and have my arms not fit but I didn’t have enough fabric for two arms and the skirt pieces so here is one more comical shot for you. I ended up adding 2 inches just to make sure I’d be covered (pun intended).
Since Deer and Doe patterns are made for a curvier girl I wasn’t worried about how the hips would fit so I just made half of the skirt for scrap fabric sake and decided to add a bit of length to it so the jacket will be knee length.
I have very little going on in the hip and butt area, I’m more of a “worry about the bust and belly fit” type of girl and my 1/2 muslin addressed those areas for me! I really should have made both of the skirt pieces though but we’ll talk more about that when I show you the finished jacket.