I’m a sucker for a Wizard of Oz quote, even when it must be butchered to suit my needs (by the way, Pavot is French for Poppy). After all of the stalled starts (read about them here) because I couldn’t find a fabric to use and all of the sizing adjustments I needed to make, I honestly had low expectations for this jacket. Perhaps my added measures due to nervousness were what made it come out so good!
I made very small seam allowances so some of my seams couldn’t be bias bound and I was really looking forward to seeing all the flowers on the inside.
Theres a pucker in one of my princess seams but I’m not even going to try fixing it because every time I’ve taken the seam ripper to this fabric it frays like mad and I was worried about ripping a giant hole on the front of my jacket.
My button holer foot only goes to a 1 inch button and my thickly covered 1 inch button was too big. I made the holes as big as it would go and cut slightly beyond it before soaking the area with fray guard to ensure my gorilla cutting wouldn’t lead to issues down the road.
Now that we’ve gotten the nasty bits out of the way, onto the brilliance that became my Pavot jacket! First I pinned the whole thing together and then when I had that looking good I basted it all together only to realize after making alterations to the top- I didn’t take the skirt into consideration! I was short about 3 inches around with not enough fabric left to recut my skirt pieces. Luckily, my Anna pattern was at hand and gave me the brilliant idea to just make a fifth panel for the center back. That was an easy fix and I actually like the look of it (especially when twirling).
I didn’t use interfacing as was suggested and I’m glad I didn’t. The collar is stiff enough between the three layers of fabric.
This was my first time having a substantial amount of top stitching to do and I think it came out really nice. If you haven’t used a topstitch needle before please try it, it really makes a huge difference. Mine could have been a little better and I think next time I topstitch I will use tailors chalk to make the lines to follow. I used my machine foot to help me with the spacing but a solid “you need to stay on this line” line, would have helped me stay straight I think.
I’m in complete love with the sleeves! I usually don’t like inset sleeves and prefer the flat method of sleeve installation, but the top gathers made this task easier and produced a lovely end result. I sewed up my sleeve as directed, added the basting stitches and then I lined up the seams and worked my way around pinning, I didn’t pull my threads to create the gather until I had the amount of space left that I knew the gathering was supposed to be visible on and that made the process of setting the sleeve so much easier.
I made my pockets and bias tape out of yet another fabric from the Melody Miller collection for Cotton + Steel. This is the 6th fabric from the collection I’ve bought, they are all so good! If I were starting this jacket over, I would make the pockets from the twill but line them with this. Compared to the thickness of the twill the quilting weight cotton feels very light and when I slam my hands into my pockets I’m afraid I’ll right through! The blue flower was the perfect shade of blue though, this looks so nice against my teal twill and adds a fun little pop of color with the turquoise, gold and white.
I was a bit nervous to make a jacket and in my opinion Pavot is the perfect first one. The construction was very similar to that of a dress pattern (I just had a great idea, maybe I’ll use this pattern for a dress! More on that later..) so there wasn’t anything too technically difficult. There were no wild notions that I’d never heard of before (I’m looking at you Great Brittish Sewing Bee Anorack) or techniques that had me scratching my head in bewilderment. All and all, a great jacket that I’ll wear again and again that was fun to make!