Handmade Wardrobe
Comments 4

Double Gauze Mortmain/Sureau Combo

Why don’t we get the nasty bit about this dress out of the way first thing.

Unfortunately, despite my best efforts, I was not able to pattern match very well on this dress. It was either have the skirt the length I wanted or pattern match and I’m glad I went with length. Looking at the picture below, it is very obviously unmatched so I wanted to touch upon it quickly. So that is that, end of discussion! 🙂

photo (16)I love this Cotton & Steel double gauze for a multitude of reasons: the way it lays, the tiny bit of stretch and the big stripes, but the biggest reason of all that I love it is because it appears to have Audrey Hepburn on it! There is no mention of her in the description but this woman on the fabric looks just like her in Sabrina so I’m going with it!

Construction wise, I’ve made the Sureau once before and had already lengthened the skirt to be where I like it to fall. I cut the back skirt as two pieces since I didn’t have enough room on the fold; because it is gathered I didn’t even bother to add any seam allowance to the center back. The bodice is the Mortmain (which I’ve made twice before; here and here.) but I omitted the waistband. I wanted this to be a really relaxed fit dress and I thought leaving out the waistband would help with that. I used the same size bodice that I used both other times and since the double gauze is such a different fabric my goal of relaxed fit was easily met. I don’t even have to unzip to get this baby on or off which is very nice when no one is awake to help zip me up for work.photo (17)

With my first Mortmain I used the facing pieces and was not 100% happy with them so for the second I fully lined. This time I used the facings again but didn’t interface them! I found them much easier to maneuver this way and they are actually sitting really nicely. I used some cream colored thread to add a row of top stitching along the neck and arm holes and it came out really nice as well. I think this dress is going to be on weekly rotation as the weather keeps getting warmer, but right now I’ll have to settle for wearing it with my perfectly matching cardigan!


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